Everest

I have done two expeditions to Mount Everest. One in 1986, an attempt on the north face where we reached 8000 meters without oxygen; and one in 2012, when I reached the summit via the South Col using oxygen. On the first expedition we had the whole north face to ourselves; on the second expedition, I was surrounded by hundreds of clients, not climbers. The truth is Everest has changed for the worse.

Photo 1. Sherpas make dozens of carries for the clients, passing through the treacherous Khumbu icefall many times.

Photo 2. Our 1986 ascent route on the north face of Everest follows the Great Couloir left of the main peak. We reached 26,000 feet.

Photo 3. Me on the summit of Everest. I didn’t spend more than five minutes there.

Photo 4. Me descending into the col between the South Summit and the main summit of Everest.